I have had a 4 slot Dualit toaster for the last 15 or so years, and it has worked well. I replaced one of the heating elements some time ago, covered in another post. The timer switch had recently become unreliable, sometimes when you turn it, the red "on" light didn't engage and the elements didn't come on.
I ordered a new timer from Dualit, which was not cheap , �27 from Dualit via their website, but I like the toaster and don't like throwing items away when a small part fails. The spare duly arrived and this is the fairly easy replacement procedure.
I ordered a new timer from Dualit, which was not cheap , �27 from Dualit via their website, but I like the toaster and don't like throwing items away when a small part fails. The spare duly arrived and this is the fairly easy replacement procedure.
NOTE : TOASTERS USE MAINS ELECTRICITY. ONLY ATTEMPT THIS IF YOU ARE COMPETENT WITH ELECTRICAL REPAIRS. ALWAYS ENSURE THE ITEM IS FULLY DISCONNECTED AT THE WALL FROM THE MAINS SUPPLY BEFORE UNDERTAKING ANY OF THE FOLLOWING
To gain access to the timer you need to remove the crumb tray and flip the toaster on its top. I use a plastic tray to sit the toaster in, collecting any screws and bread crumbs that fall out. There are 6 screws which old the base on, four of which are also holding rubber feet in place.
Once you have the base off you then need to gently prize off the timer knob. I gently used a scraper as a lever. gentle steady pressure, ensuring I didn't scratch the surface of the toaster.
Here you can see the timer switch with knob removed. two screws hold the switch in place.
here is the exposed switch from beneath. The timer is basically a switch in series with the mains switch on the front. It takes the Live and Neutral wires from the mains lead and also the wires to the heating elements via the 2 or 4 selector illuminated switch
having removed the two front screws I could gently pull the switch out, and photograph the wiring, always useful as a point of reference
now the replacement timer switch is different in shape and layout to the original. New on the left, original on the right , plus a new knob which came with the replacement .
the new part came with instructions regarding the wire plug positions
I followed the instructions , with the mains and neutral at one end and the remaining wires on the original piggyback adapters at the other, using the colours on the instructions to decide which side.
In order that the knob is aligned correctly when push fitted on the switch is orientated inside with the solid rectangular block with no wiring tabs facing downward. then when you put the knob on the front (push fit) the zero/off position aligns upward with the black marker.
Check all wires are secure, screw timer in place with the two front screws and refit the bottom plate with its 6 screws/4 feet.
Once back together , I did a test, turning on at the wall selecting both 2 and 4 slots, rotating the timer and the toaster came on . Easy fix, the new timer has a smoother action.
NOTE: Out of interest I dismantled the old timer to see what the problem was. The open contacts were charred , as happens to most mains switches over time. The clockwork timer mechanism was fine, simple wear and tear from 15 years or briefly arcing as the gap opened/closed. I was right to replace with a new good switch
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